Both men’s and women’s watches are categorized by the type of movement they use to operate. These days, there are really only 2 types of watch movement to choose from: mechanical or quartz.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages, however most luxury watches these days tend to fall in the mechanical category. Why is this? What exactly is a mechanical watch anyway?
Well, these are the questions this guide aims to answer for ya.
After reading this article, not only will you know what a mechanical watch is, but you’ll know all the lingo you’ll need to to find the right watch for your wrist.
What Is A Mechanical Watch?
Simply put- a mechanical watch is one that isn’t powered by a battery.
Less simply put, mechanical watches are intricate machines that require expert craftsmanship to keep accurate time without the use of electricity.
Technically, all watches were mechanical up until the late ’60s. This is when the first quartz watches appeared on the market, changing the time keeping game forever.
Although quartz watches were (and still are) hugely popular, luxury watches still largely fall in the mechanical category. This is because of how much more craftsmanship must go into a mechanical watch, generally speaking.
Mechanical watches are powered by a spring (or multiple springs). As you wind it (as in the case for manual watches), you are storing energy inside the spring system.
The energy needed to power these watches is produced as this spring releases the energy you stored in it when you wound it.
Through the use of hundreds of small gears and screws, the power is modulated appropriately to make the second hand move at the correct speed to keep accurate time.
As challenging as that sounds, consider that all this gear needs to fit snuggly in a case small enough for us to wear on our wrist- pretty amazing when you think about it.
If you’ve ever seen the inside of a mechanical watch, it’s pretty mind-blowing. All those tiny gears placed precisely on top of each other. This is what I mean when I say that these watches require more craftsmanship.
And this is why most luxury watches tend to be of the mechanical type- if it takes more craftsmanship and know how to design and build, then it’s going to cost more.
But that’s also one of the perks of owning one- knowing that you’re wearing a fine tuned machine.
Anyway, mechanical watches are watches that don’t need batteries, got it.
But mechanical watches can be categorized further depending on whether they are manual or automatic.
Manual vs Automatic Watches
If you see the terms “manual” or “automatic” during your watch search, the first thing you should keep in mind is that these are both kinds of mechanical watches.
Manual watches need to be wound, automatic watches are self-winding.
Manual watches vary greatly on how often they need winding. Some may be able to last a day, others may last 5 days or more between windings. It all depends on the energy reserve of the spring inside the watch.
The original wristwatches were all manual. These watches work great, look great, and keep accurate time. Even though we have more advanced technology available now, we still have plenty of manual watches being designed these days.
A classic never goes out of style.
Automatic watches are designed to wind themselves using the motion of your wrist as you wear them. They do this by using a small metal weight called a rotor.
This rotor is designed to rotate as your wrist moves, which effectively winds the mechanism of the watch. As long as you wear the watch daily, you won’t have to worry about winding.
Some automatic watches can store power for a day or two so you don’t have to literally wear the watch every day. This is a handy feature for people who like to wear different watches or don’t necessarily wear a watch everyday.
If your automatic watch loses all its power from lack of wearing, you can manually wind it to get it back on track.
There are also “watch winders” you can purchase to keep your automatic watches fully wound at all times- these are handy watch stands that keep your watches moving gently when not on your wrist.
The added sophistication necessary to keep an automatic watch functioning makes these watches more expensive. I doubt you’re surprised.
Luxury automatic watches can cost as much as small houses (or even large houses in some cases).
Finding The Right Mechanical Watch
Now you know what a mechanical watch is and that it can be manual or automatic. But let’s take it one step farther and discuss a few key features you should consider when looking for a new one.
Dial
One of the first features you’ll likely consider is the dial. The dial (or watch face) is the part of the watch that displays the time. This is the “screen” of the watch. Not only is the dial crucial for displaying the time, but it plays a huge role in the overall look of the watch as well.
Dials come in all different shapes and sizes. They also come in a variety of colors. They can be simple, displaying only the time or complex with different chronographs and calendars.
There’s no right or wrong answer when comparing dials, it’s all about finding one that fits your style.
Band
You should also consider what type of band you’d prefer. The band is the part that attaches the watch to your wrist. Traditional materials include leather and stainless steel metal bands, but you’ll see all kinds of materials being used, including rubber, canvas, and even plastic.
Metal bands use clasps to connect and release- these make donning and doffing your watch quick and easy. Leather or cloth bands tend to use a more buckle like attachment- takes a little longer to put on, but is usually a little more comfortable.
The band plays a big role in the style of the watch too. Leather bands make for an elegant, more dressy look and are often used in formal dress watches.
Size
Depending on how technical you’re getting, you may want to consider the size of the watch. Watch size usually refers to the diameter of the case (the part of the watch that isn’t the band), measured in millimeters (mm).
Most men’s watches have case diameters between 36-40 mm. Women’s watches are smaller and usually fall in the 26-30 mm range.
Sports watches and over sized men’s watches can be 42 – 45 mm and up.
Watch size doesn’t affect accuracy or function, it’s just a matter of style and preference. Just keep in mind that larger watches will usually weigh more- some people like the heavy feel, others don’t.
Crystal
The crystal is the window that protects the dial. If you’re looking for a luxury watch and really getting into the nitty gritty of it, you may want to consider the material the crystal is made of when comparing watches.
Watch crystals can be made out of 3 different materials (or some combination of these): plastic (acrylic), mineral glass, or synthetic sapphire.
Plastic crystals are the least expensive. They’re softer, so they scratch easily, but the scratches can usually be buffed out.
Mineral glass is the most commonly used material for mid-range watches because it’s a lot more durable than acrylic. The tempered glass is scratch resistant, but if you do get a scratch, you’ll probably have to replace the crystal.
Synthetic sapphire crystals are the most scratch resistant of the bunch. This material isn’t really glass, it’s a clear material that mimics the hardiness of natural sapphire gemstones (minus the cool color).
Natural and synthetic sapphire are both amongst the hardest materials on Earth, falling just below diamonds. High-end luxury watches will use sapphire crystals because they’re darn near scratch proof.
Price
Price will obviously play a big role in your hunt for your next watch. After all, you have to find one that fits in your budget. Luckily, there are wonderful mechanical watches in all price ranges.
Even though automatic watches cost more than manuals, there are plenty of dapper options under $200.
And there really isn’t a ceiling when it comes to watch prices. One of the world’s most expensive watches, the Graff Diamonds Hallucination, was valued at $55 million- insane.
Watch technology plays a big part in price, but materials and brand do too.
If a watch is riddled with gemstones and diamonds, the price is going to reflect that.
Final Thoughts
Mechanical watches don’t need a battery to operate. They rely on a spring, a boat load of gears, and good ol’ fashioned engineering to get the job done.
These watches have to be wound to operate. This can be accomplished by you manually or the watch can wind itself automatically as you wear it.
A lot of watches are going the automatic route these days because it’s the newest technology. It’s also convenient, saving you the need to wind your watch every day.
When looking for a manual or automatic watch, it’s all about finding one that best matches your style. Many features of the watch should be considered, including the dial, band, and overall size.
But you can also think about finer details like the shape of the crown, bezel features, and what the watch hands look like.
Remember- when it comes to style, there are no wrong answers. It’s all about finding what you like.
That about does it for mechanical watches. If you have any questions or comments, leave them below and I’ll get back to ya.